Back at the desk to tell you what´s happened lately.
At the moment we are about 3000 kilometers south of the last Corrientes (last update on the blog). Here is what we have spent the time doing.
After another busride to Puerto Iguazu, we were ready to see the largest waterfall on the Planet Earth – Foz de Iguazu.
With an average of 1756 cubicmetres (m3) of water flowing over the 2700 meter edge EVERY SECOND, this waterfall is nothing but astonishing. The falls are located on the border between Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil. We spent two days hiking in the surrounding jungle. First a day on the Brazilian side. Great views with unfortunate weather.
There is a population of these little (and very agressive) animals called Coitas. They managed to rob a full bag of chips from a German guy. (couldn´t help but laugh…. really loud…. haha)
The second day we spent on the waterfalls of Argentina. Here we got walk around and all the way to the top of the falls (actually called the “asshole of the Devil”. Crazy and unbelievable amounts of water falling down every second.
After a couple of days around the falls we decided to head into Uruguay to see what´s good. We went pretty much straight to the capital city Montevideo, but the border crossing on the way was quite spectacular. We had to take the “ferry” (just about worlds smallest ferry…) to cross the river into Uruguay. Though small it was a pretty ride.
We made it to Montevideo, where we met three English guys. Really cool people that we enjoyed hanging out with. We went to a reformed railway station called Mercado del Puerto where they serve the best barbeque. We had giant steaks and it was delicious!
Uruguay was a short but pleasant visit before we headed south again. Next stop Mar del Plata: a fishing capital on the Atlantic coast of Argentina. The whole city smelled of fish but you do understand why, when you see the harbor – it´s packed with fishing vessels in all sorts and sizes. We talked alot with the locals on the boats and we managed to book a deep sea fishing trip a couple days later. In the meantime we tried a little handfishing from the shore which worked out really well. The locals were quite impressed with our technique that landed a couple handfulls of fish. We had the fish cooked a couple of different ways at a restaurant by the water. Great eating!
We managed to (in Spanish) sweettalk one of the fishermen into giving us a fresh fish straight from a fishing vessel. This one we ate as well. Delicious!
Around the harbor huge sea lions were lying around. The dogs were very unhappy with these 400kg creatures lying on the rocks but they didn´t seem to care.
We tried to feed them with on of our own fish but it was too lazy to move 3 inches towards this tasty looking little fish. We were both quite surprised to say the least……
The real fishing trip turned out to be quite a succes. We left at 5 in the morning 50 kilometers off shore and fished to the bottom of the reef at around 45 meters depth. We weren´t completely sure what to expect but we were overwhelmed when we started pulling up loads of fish. Here are some pictures.
Shark! Released afterwards. No animals were harmed during this photo (except for Soren…)
18 kilogram Salmon Blanco! Unfortunately not caught by us – instead by a local who managed to catch not one but three (!!!!!!) of these beasts… Loco!
This seagull flew into big bucket of fish, but we caught it and released it. Pollo loco! We saw albatross on the way back as well – amazing sight with a wing span of more than 2 meters.
All in all a great day with a combined catch of 45 kilograms of fish (only the two of us). We took a couple different fish to the restaurant. Almost still alive when cooked – these fish were some of the best we have ever had! The last 40 kg of fish we left for the captain and deckhand who sold them at the market.
From Mar del Plata next stop was a national park at Peninsula Valdés. A Spanish friend of ours recommended a trip here to see whales and Orcas (killer whales) eating seals of the beach – HOW EXCITING!!!!!!!
But….. no whales or killer whales at this time of year. A little disappointing however we saw sea elephants, penguins and the best of all – an armadillo (baeltedyr) – which as a matter of fact is just as cool if not even cooler than whales and killer whales…
This is where the killer whales supposedly jump onto the beach to eat the sea lions and seals. But unfortunately no one appeared that day…
Imagine that we have traveled a more than halfway down the Atlantic coast of Argentina and next was Rio Gallegos. A small (and windy) town on the way to Ushuaia. We slept in a small hostel and stacked up on snacks before heading to Ushuaia. Started snowing…
Ushuaia – better known as the World´s End. This town with a population of 60.000 people is the most southern city in the world (yes there are people on Antarctica. no they do not live in a town.) Ushuaia only 1000 km from Antarctica!
A great but cold experience especially for one of the two faithful backpackers who accidentally left his only pair of long underwear in a salt desert in Bolivia… The other fellow viking had his own issues to deal with since his only warm pants were and still are covered in fish… Now he´s in jeans and long underwear. Since none of us know how to do laundry, our pants will be very smelly once we arrive in Denmark a month from now – sorry mom……
The southern tip of Argentina offered a great variety of eating options of which Centolla was a highlight. Caught in the Beagle Channel right outside of town, we shared this monster. The pictures speak for themselves
The Beagle Channel is famous for its crab fishing and beautiful nature. We did a boat excursion where we got to see penguins, sea lions and (a lot of…) birds. We even walked around on an island in the middle of the Beagle Channel to watch the sun go down behind the mountains of Ushuaia.
View from Bridges Island – Pacific Ocean to the west and the Atlantic Ocean to the east.
To complete one of the best boat rides so far the captain served ice cold beer on tap to finish the day. Draft beer(s) can always save the day and even though we were frozen, the local brewed Beagle Pilsner managed to heat our hands and body up to a delightful level to say the least…… ¡Cheers!
Now writing from Puerto Natales in Chile, new adventures lie ahead of us. National parks and glaciers are just some of the exciting things on our path further north. Once again we hope you enjoyed reading along – feel very free to say hi in a comment below, that´d be great.
(still rockin´ the sweater like a boss)
Lots of love from Chile
Erik and Soren